Swedish Army M39 "Grandad" Shirt – Vintage Waffle Cotton
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Military Clothing Size Guide (Click to Expand)
Military clothing sizes are listed as Height / Chest (for jackets and smocks) or Height / Waist (for trousers).
Example: 180/96 fits someone around 5'11" tall with a 38" chest.
| NATO Size (Label) | Approx Height | Chest / Waist (in) | Generic Size |
|---|---|---|---|
| 160 / 88 | 5'3"–5'5" | 34–35" | Small (S) |
| 170 / 88 | 5'7"–5'9" | 34–35" | Small (S) |
| 170 / 96 | 5'7"–5'9" | 37–38" | Medium (M) |
| 180 / 96 | 5'10"–5'11" | 37–38" | Medium (M) |
| 180 / 104 | 5'10"–5'11" | 40–41" | Large (L) |
| 190 / 96 | 6'2" | 37–38" | Medium (M) Tall |
| 190 / 104 | 6'2" | 40–41" | Large (L) Tall |
| 180 / 112 | 5'11" | 43–44" | X-Large (XL) |
| 190 / 112 | 6'2" | 43–44" | X-Large (XL) Tall |
| 200 / 120 | 6'4"+ | 46–48" | 2X-Large (2XL) |
⚙️ Sizing Tips
- The first number is your height in cm.
- The second number is your chest or waist in cm.
- Military gear is usually cut roomy for layering and movement.
- If you’re between sizes, go down for a closer fit or up for layering.
- Example: 5'11" tall with 40" chest → 180/104 (Large).
Swedish Army M39 "Grandad" Shirt – Vintage Waffle Cotton
The Swedish Army M39 Grandad Shirt is a legendary piece of European military undershirt design, issued from 1939 onwards and remaining a staple of the Swedish Armed Forces for decades. Known for its distinct "waffle" or honeycomb weave, this shirt was engineered to trap air against the body, providing exceptional thermal insulation while remaining highly breathable. Sourced as Used Grade surplus, these shirts have the authentic vintage "broken-in" feel that is highly sought after by bushcraft enthusiasts and fans of heritage workwear.
Technical Details & Features
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100% Heavyweight Cotton: Crafted from a thick, durable natural cotton that becomes softer and more comfortable with every wash.
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Waffle Weave Design: The specialized honeycomb texture creates a micro-climate of warm air, making it an ideal base layer for cold-weather operations or stationary tasks.
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Classic Grandad Collar: A traditional round-neck "half-placket" design featuring three or four buttons at the collar for manual ventilation.
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Long-Tail Design: Features an extended rear hem (typical of mid-century military shirts) to ensure the shirt stays tucked in and protects the lower back during movement.
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Banded Cuffs: Elasticated or ribbed cuffs to prevent heat loss and ensure the sleeves stay in place under outer layers.
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Authentic Grey/Off-White Tones: Available in the original Swedish military shades, ranging from light grey to a natural cream, depending on the production era and wash history.
Condition: Used Grade
As these are Used Grade surplus items dating back several decades, please expect:
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Vintage Character: Shirts may show signs of previous military use, including professional repairs (darning), faint storage marks, or slight fading of the original colour.
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Markings: Many shirts feature the "Three Crowns" (Tre Kronor) Swedish military stamp or handwritten names/service numbers on the inside neck or hem.
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Sizing Variations: Due to various manufacturing contracts and years of washing, actual sizes can vary slightly. We recommend sizing up if you prefer a looser "over-shirt" fit.
Realistic Use Cases
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Bushcraft & Base Layering: The waffle cotton is world-renowned among outdoorsmen for its ability to manage moisture and provide warmth without bulk.
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Heritage & Vintage Fashion: The iconic "Grandad" silhouette and textured fabric make this a timeless piece that pairs perfectly with denim, chinos, or work trousers.
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Loungewear: Because they are 100% cotton and well-worn, these make incredibly comfortable, breathable shirts for home use or sleeping in cold environments.
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Historical Reenactment: An essential, "correct" under-layer for portrayals of the Swedish Army or generic mid-2000s European military impressions.
Care & Maintenance
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Washing: Wash at 30-40°C. As these are vintage cotton, high heat can cause slight shrinkage if the shirt has not been fully pre-shrunk by previous owners.
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Drying: Air dry where possible. Avoid high-heat tumble drying to preserve the integrity of the waffle weave.
Domestic Shipping
We mainly use Royal mail 48 for items under 1kg and DPD for items over this weight. We may change this at any time dependant on service availability and destination.
We send out the majority of orders the same day of receiving upto 1pm
We also offer an express shipping service which ensures your delivery is prioritised for delivery as quick as possible and usually delivered the next working day.
We do offer Saturday delivery and timed delivery but prices are on application.
For US and Canada we mainly use Fedex priority and deliveries are usually recieved within 2 to 5 days
For EU deliveries we mainly use DPD by road and usually takes from 3 to 7 days, your parcels are not necessarily delivered by DPD in your county and the parcel may be passed to your countries nominated carrier.
Rest of the World, we have availability with all the major carriers and each is nominated dependant on the best service for the receivers destination.
If you can not get an automated shipping quote please contact us for a spot shipping quote.
If you are not entirely satisfied with your purchase, we're here to help.
You have 7 calendar days to contact us and arrange for the item to be returned which will be received by us no longer than 30 days from initial order. To be eligible for a return, your item must be unused (if applicable) and in the same condition that you received it. Your item must be in the original packaging (if applicable).
There is a £3.99 charge to use our returns facility. (UK domestic only)
To return your item(s) please click here
When sending items back please ensure that the proof of purchase (or copy) is within the package with any instructions if applicable.
Once we receive your item, we will inspect it and notify you that we have received your returned item. We will immediately notify you on the status of your refund or exchange and if applicable we will initiate a refund via your original method of payment.
If you opt for an exchange we will contact you for further postage costs. (price dependant on weight/destination).
If applicable you will receive the credit within 7 days, depending on your card issuer's policies. Contact Us If you have any questions on how to return your item to us.