Getting military surplus clothing to fit means working two sizing systems at once: forces issue sizing and the reality that a lot of stock is used, graded, or NOS (new old stock). This guide walks through the measurements you need, how to read NATO size codes, and where grading throws the fit off before you order from MilitaryMart in 2026.
- Measure chest, waist and inside leg in inches before ordering MTP PCS trousers or a field jacket - genuine British Army kit runs to issue sizing, not high street sizing.
- NATO three-number codes (height/chest/waist in cm) appear on No.2 dress and European surplus - a military clothing size guide only works if you know which system you're reading.
- Graded and used stock can sit tighter than new - check the condition note before you size up in 2026.
- Cadets fitting first uniform kit should check the cadet uniform fitting guide before ordering, not after.
Why this matters
Military surplus clothing wasn't cut for a high street size chart. It was cut to issue specifications, sized for layering under webbing, and often worn by conscripts and regulars whose build ran differently to the average UK buyer today. Add in that most surplus stock is used or graded rather than new, and a size label alone doesn't tell you enough.
Get the measurements wrong on a genuine British Army smock or a pair of MTP trousers and you're either restricted at the shoulder or swimming in the waist. Get them right and surplus kit often fits better and lasts longer than modern outdoor gear built to a slimmer civilian block.
What you'll need
- A tape measure (fabric, not a rigid one)
- A notepad for your numbers: chest, waist, inside leg, neck, shoe size
- A jacket or trousers that already fit you well, to compare against
- The product listing open in front of you - genuine surplus listings state condition and grading, not just a size
Start with something you already own that fits the way you want new kit to fit. If you're buying MTP PCS trousers, lay a pair of trousers you already wear flat and measure the waistband and inside leg directly - that number beats guessing from memory every time.
The steps
1. Measure your chest across the widest point
Wrap the tape under your arms and across the shoulder blades, keeping it level and snug but not tight. This is the number that matters for jackets, smocks and shirts - not your regular retail chest size, which often runs smaller.
Write it down in inches. Most British Army combat clothing is sized in inches even where the listing also shows a NATO equivalent.
Common mistake: measuring over a thick jumper. Measure over a t-shirt or base layer, the same layer you'll actually wear under the jacket.
2. Measure your waist, not your trouser size
Measure around your natural waistline, where trousers actually sit, not where your jeans happen to ride. Combat trousers like the MTP PCS pattern are sized on this real waist measurement in inches.
If you carry kit on a belt or webbing, measure with that in mind - you want room for a belt and pouches, not a bare-skin fit.
3. Get your inside leg length
Measure from the crotch seam of a well-fitting pair of trousers straight down to the hem. British forces trousers often come in regular, long and short leg options on genuine issue stock, so this figure decides which cut you order.
Skip this step and you'll end up hemming trousers that didn't need it, or short in the leg on ones that did.
4. Learn to read NATO sizing codes
A lot of European and dress uniform stock uses a three-number NATO code: height, chest, waist, all in centimetres. A jacket marked 182/104/88 fits someone roughly 182cm tall with a 104cm chest and 88cm waist.
This system trips up buyers used to UK inch sizing because the numbers look nothing like a normal size label. Convert your own chest and waist to centimetres before you shop NATO-coded stock, and don't assume the first number is a size at all - it's a height band.
5. Factor in grading and condition
Genuine surplus gets graded new, used, or NOS. Used wool and cotton items can shrink slightly after their first wash if the previous owner didn't dry them flat, and heavy canvas smocks soften and stretch a little with wear.
Be upfront with yourself about what "used" means for fit: a used item at the small end of your size range often fits tighter than the same size new. If you're between two sizes on a graded item, size up.
6. Size for layering, not just base fit
Field jackets and smocks were designed to go over a shirt and a mid layer, not as a slim outer shell. If you're planning to wear a jacket over a fleece in winter, size to fit over that layer, not to fit skin-tight on its own.
The same logic applies to trousers worn over thermals. A size that feels roomy in the shop with just a t-shirt on is often correct once you add the layers you'll actually wear in the field.
7. Check boots and headwear separately
Boot sizing runs on its own logic entirely - British and German military boots in particular size differently to UK shoe sizing, and grading affects fit here even more than with clothing. Don't assume your clothing size tells you anything about boot size; work through the boot sizing guide separately before you order footwear.
Troubleshooting
Jacket fits the chest but feels tight at the shoulders. Military smocks and field jackets are cut for movement, but a graded used item can have shrunk slightly at the seams. Size up one on graded stock if shoulder room matters more to you than a snug chest.
Trousers are right at the waist but too long or short. You measured the waist correctly but skipped the inside leg. Check whether the listing offers regular, long or short leg options before ordering a second pair.
A NATO code doesn't match your usual size at all. You're likely reading a height/chest/waist code as a single size number. Convert your own measurements to centimetres and compare all three figures, not just one.
Used kit feels tighter than the listing description suggested. This happens with wool blankets and cotton smocks that have been washed since grading. It's a known trait of used surplus, not a fault - size up if you're on the edge of two sizes.
Cadet uniform doesn't fit like adult sizing charts suggest. Cadet kit is often issued in youth or junior sizing rather than standard adult forces sizing. Check the cadet uniform fitting guide before ordering a first kit list rather than after it arrives.
Tools and resources
- Fabric tape measure and notepad
- A well-fitting jacket or trousers to compare against
- The product listing's condition and grading notes
- Cadet uniform fitting guide for first-kit cadets
- Boot sizing guide for footwear bought alongside clothing
What to do next
Once sizing is sorted, layering is the next thing that catches new buyers out - combat jackets and smocks are designed to be worn as part of a system, not on their own. The layering guide covers what goes under a field jacket for cold weather without bulking out the fit you just worked out.
FAQ
What's the best way to size military surplus clothing?
Measure your own chest, waist and inside leg in inches before ordering, then compare against the listing's stated size rather than your usual retail size. Genuine forces kit is cut to issue specifications, not high street sizing, so a direct body measurement beats guessing from a normal clothes size in 2026.
Is NATO sizing the same as UK clothing sizing?
No. NATO sizing uses a three-number code for height, chest and waist in centimetres, while UK forces sizing for combat kit is usually given in inches. Convert your measurements to centimetres before shopping NATO-coded items like No.2 dress uniforms.
Does used or graded military surplus clothing run smaller than new?
Used and graded items can sit tighter than the same labelled size in new stock, mainly from washing and wear. If you're between two sizes on a used or graded item, size up rather than down.
How much room should I leave for layering under a field jacket?
Size the jacket to fit comfortably over the mid layer you plan to wear in cold weather, not over a bare t-shirt. A jacket that feels roomy with just a base layer on is often the correct fit once a fleece or jumper goes underneath.
How do I measure inside leg for military surplus trousers?
Lay a pair of trousers that already fit you flat and measure from the crotch seam straight down to the hem. This tells you whether you need a regular, long or short leg cut on genuine issue trousers.
Is cadet uniform sized the same as adult forces kit?
No, cadet kit is often issued in youth or junior sizing rather than standard adult forces sizing. Check a dedicated cadet fitting guide before ordering a first kit list to avoid returns.
Why does my military boot size not match my clothing size?
Boot sizing runs on separate scaling from clothing, and grading affects boot fit more noticeably than clothing fit. Treat boots as a completely separate measurement rather than assuming your jacket or trouser size carries over.
Can I return military surplus clothing if the size is wrong?
Check the specific listing and MilitaryMart's returns policy before ordering, since condition and grading vary item to item. Measuring properly before you buy avoids the hassle of a return altogether.
One last thing
The detail most buyers miss: a NATO code like 182/104/88 isn't a size at all in the way a UK label is - it's three separate measurements stacked together, and getting the middle number (chest) right matters far more than matching the height figure exactly. Focus your fit checks there first, and the rest of military surplus clothing sizing gets a lot less confusing in 2026.
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